Phnom Penh - Cambodia's Capital City!

Phnom Penh, capital city of the Kingdom of Cambodia, was established in 1422 by King Podhea Yat when he abandoned the city of Angkor and built five wats in Phnom Penh on the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers, signalling the change from an agrarian to a trading economy.

Later kings moved the capital several times but Phnom Penh became the permanent seat of Government in 1866. The French built roads, buildings and the port and by the 1920’s the city was considered to be one of the most beautiful in Asia. Development continued after independence in 1953 but was halted abruptly and violently by the coup by the Khmer Rouge. The city was initially laid to siege and eventually fell and was totally evacuated by the regime. It remained empty until the fall of the Khmer Rouge in 1979, after which those who had survived the Killing Fields began to return almost immediately. UN sponsored elections in 1993 initiated a new era of growth which continues today.

Highlights of the City

The Riverfront – take a romantic stroll or cyclo ride along Phnom Penh's Sithowath Quay to enjoy the breeze and the view of the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers. The water level varies greatly depending upon what time of the year you visit and is at it’s highest at the end of the rainy season in October. The sunrise can be spectacular over the river in front of the Royal Palace. There are also regular 2-hour cruises during the day which are particularly pleasant if combined with lunch or dinner and sunset on board a cruising restaurant.

Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda – central Phnom Penh, between Sts 204 and 184 on the riverfront. Entry is $3 per person with additional charges ($2-5) for cameras. The Palace, built in 1866 under the French protectorate and King Norodom, is open every day from 7.30-11.00 a.m. and 2.30-5.00 p.m.

National Museum – next to the Royal Palace, costs $3 to enter and is open 8am to 5pm every day. It’s 5,000 displays include an extensive collection of Angkorian era statues and other artifacts.

Wat Phnom – north Phnom Penh at the intersection of Street 96 and Norodom Blvd, a $1 entrance fee is sometimes collected. A beautiful, active Buddhist wat atop a small hill which was the original founding site of Phnom Penh. The legend tells of the beautiful Lady Penh who retrieved four Buddha statues from a floating koki tree and built a hill (Phnom) to house them. It is a tranquil place to catch a cool breeze and watch pilgrims pay their respects and visit the fortune tellers there.

The Markets and Shopping – you should try and visit at least one traditional market while you are in Phnom Penh. The two best known are The Russian Market and the Central Market. The Russian Market is not so centrally located but is the best for souvenirs, curious and silks and the vendors seem more realistic in their expectations. The 1935 art deco-style Central Market is architecturally interesting but is geared almost entirely to the tourist who doesn’t have time to venture further afield and the vendors are most aggressive. More exclusive shopping can be found along Streets 178 and 240 where there are a number of elegant boutiques and galleries displaying contemporary Cambodian art, fine silks and sculptures.

Day Trips from Phnom Penh

A number of short day or half-day excursions can be made from Phnom Penh and these can be booked easily through your hotel, travel agencies or restaurants. They include visits to a local weaving village, a shooting range where you can fire weapons dating from the American war (although one would think there'd been enough shooting around here to last a lifetime!), Phnom Chiso, Phnom Udong and other local temples and Tonle Bati Lake

A one-day tour takes you from Phnom Penh to a Mekong River fishing village and includes a visit to a silk weaving village and sunset on the Mekong River. It costs US$10 per person.

Undoubtedly the most popular day trip from Phnom Penh is the Cheoung Ek Memorial (The Killing Fields) and Toul Sieng Genocide Museum – 15 km southwest of the city and easily reached by moto or taxi. A $2 entry fee is charged for the Museum which is open every day between 8am and 5pm. A tour with guide will cost US$2-3 exclusive of the entry fee. Most visitors to Phnom Penh consider the site a must see; others prefer to stay away as a personal protest to the way in which the world community closed it’s eyes to the atrocities when they were being perpetrated.

Dining Out

There is a host of fine dining opportunities in Phnom Penh. Most restaurants, ranging from small, family run affairs to 5-star luxury venues offer excellent traditional Khmer cuisine and this should not be forgotten when faced with the plethora of western food delights on offer in the city. Given Cambodia’s history and relationship with France, it is not surprising to find that some of the most elegant venues are French, with food and wine reflecting that relationship. There are a number of excellent Chinese restaurants in Phnom Penh, ranging from places near the Central Market offering noodles and dumplings for $1 a plate to the fine dining experience offered at the Inter Continental Hotel. There are a number of Australian and American style restaurants around the city if your favourites include steak, burgers, chips and salads. For lovers of Mediterranean-style food should seek out the streets lining and just behind Sisawoth Quay offer a variety of styles to suit every budget.

Whether its a snack, a casual meal or a bedtime dessert, Phnom Penh's fine bakeries beckon. The traditional French baguette is available on virtually every street corner. A large expatriate community ensures that in more sophisticated (and expensive) venues, you can purchase wonderful baked delights such as muffins, croissants, pastries, doughnuts, cakes and tarts. Don't expect your "Asian Weightloss Programme" to hold up here!

If you're a party animal, Phnom Penh is home to a variety of venues, small and large, relaxed and sophisticated. The most popular area is around Street 51 where there a number of colourful bars playing an eclectic assortment of music and you can drink until (very) late.

Accommodation

Like restaurants, hotels in Phnom Penh are many and varied. They range from small, family operated guesthouses catering mostly for the budget traveler to excellent and inexpensive mid-range hotels and, at the top end, a number of world class 5-star luxury international venues which will provide a respite from the dust and chaos of this bustling, endearing South East Asian city. All are very centrally located to the major tourist venues within the city and you will be warmly welcomed regardless of your particular budget choice.

Further References:

• Phnom Penh City Council - History of Phnomh Penh

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